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As many readers will know, I have spent the last few years bringing the history of Chedworth Roman Villa in the Cotswolds to life. I was therefore excited to visit the remains of a massive Roman amphitheatre in nearby Cirencester.
Artist's impression of the Cirencester Amphitheatre (via the English Heritage interpretation board)
Cirencester, known as Corinium almost two thousand years ago, was the second largest town in Roman Britain after Londinium (London). Various sources estimate the population to have been around 12 000 people. Given the relatively close proximity of Chedworth Roman Villa to the town, it is highly likely that the owners would have attended Gladiatorial events and other activities at the amphitheatre. One of the theories is that the villa was owned by a very wealthy government official or businessperson based in Corinium, making regular attendance at the amphitheatre more likely.
An illustrated map showing the location of the amphitheatre (left) and Chedworth Roman Villa (right)
Walking around what remains of the groundworks of the amphitheatre, I was struck by the steepness of the slopes, which would have allowed thousands of spectators to pack in and cheer on the gladiators below. The capacity of the arena has been estimated at around 8,000 people. It would have been a short walk from town and several sources have suggested that the road would have been packed with stalls selling refreshments and merchandise to spectators.
I closed my eyes and imagined the scene of 8,000 passionate fans cheering on the performers below
One of the interpretation boards contains this map showing the proximity of the amphitheatre to the town
Research suggests that the amphitheatre served as a multipurpose stadium hosting everything from religious festivals and military displays to sporting events and simulated hunts. These free public spectacles were funded by local magistrates and politicians. While we often think of gladiatorial combat to the death, the reality in Cirencester may have been quite different. Historical records suggest that professional gladiators would tour the provinces, likely putting on choreographed exhibition matches that, while violent, were designed to avoid serious injury or death.
The amphitheatre's discovery in 1780 by Samuel Rudder was the first known identification of the site as a Roman amphitheatre, and excavations in the 1960s and 1990s revealed more of its impressive scale and construction. An article published by the Corinium Museum highlights that several interesting objects were found on site including an 'enamelled brooch in the shape of a bird as well as the staff of a caduceus, a staff wrapped by two snakes often carried by the god Mercury'. Coins, fragments of glass, wall plaster and marble have also been found. Given the limited nature of the excavations, it is intriguing to think of how many time capsules still lie hidden beneath the soil.
Portion of the English Heritage interpretation board showing the excavations and the brooch
According to one of the interpretation boards, the amphitheatre was built in the 2nd century AD and, as mentioned, it was used for public entertainment and events. Before that it was a quarry which supplied stone for the construction of houses, shops and public buildings in the nearby town. The designers cleverly incorporated the existing quarry face as the southeast wall. The northwest banking was created using quarry waste, while wooden planks provided seating on narrow terraces - a practical choice given Britain's notoriously wet climate. An article published by the community group AQIVA, whose members help to look after the amphitheatre, suggests that the banks were approximately 2.5 meters higher than what we see today.
The traditional view of the amphitheatre's decline highlights that the appetite for gladiatorial combat waned in the 4th century. Around 350-360 AD, it is believed that the amphitheatre was repurposed to serve as a marketplace. The narrative suggests that the final blow came with the Roman army's withdrawal from Britain in 407 AD. It is believed that the population of Corinium fell dramatically and the amphitheatre, along with other public buildings, fell into disuse.
However, recent discoveries at Chedworth Roman Villa may challenge this traditional view. A 5th or 6th century mosaic found on the North Range of the the villa suggests a mosaic making industry and continued economic activity in the region. This finding raises intriguing questions about whether the amphitheatre might have remained in use longer than previously thought.
Excavating the mosaic at Chedworth Roman Villa. The discovery is rewriting the history of the end of Roman Britain. (The Heritage Portal)
If you ever find yourself in the Cotswolds, a stroll from the centre of town to take in the beautiful setting and history of the Amphitheatre is a wonderful way to spend a few hours.
View towards town from the top of one of the banks
About the author: James Ball is the founder and editor of The Heritage Portal. His day job is to bring the history of the National Trust's Chedworth Roman Villa to life.
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