In 2012, my wife Lorraine travelled on two weeks’ business to Lucknow, India, and I was fortunate to tag along for part thereof. Departing Lucknow by overnight train to Agra, we visited, amongst others, the Taj Mahal, the Red Fort, and the historic Roman Catholic cemetery. Too soon we departed for a rather tiring drive to New Delhi, relieved only by a stop at the Fatehpur Sikri, briefly capital of the Mughal Empire during the late 16th century.
In New Delhi, we walked along the ceremonial boulevard, previously called the King’s Way, but now the Rajpath, from the All-India War Memorial Arch to the summit of Raisina Hill. Ascending the slightly elevated Raisina Hill we passed between the two Secretariat Buildings flanking the inclined way, to end our meander at the imposing Rashtrapati Bhavan, official residence of the Indian President (see main photo).
Herbert Baker designed the elegant Secretariats and Edwin Lutyens the Rashtrapati Bhavan (Presidential Palace), for many years the largest residence of any Head of State in the world.
For this article, the terms used when this boulevard and buildings were designed during the period of the British Empire, namely King’s Way and Viceroy’s House, will apply.
Lutyens had visualised that the portico of the great Viceroy’s House, should be continuously visible from the King’s Way over the crest of the inclined way between the two Secretariat Buildings. When he realised that one loses sight of part of this great house as one approaches it along the King’s...